The Physics of Breathing on the Summit Push
Managing your oxygen flow is a balancing act. Turn it too high, and you run out before the top. Turn it too low, and you risk collapse on the Mount Everest summit ridge.
Most Mount Everest expedition members climb at a rate of 2-4 liters per minute. This provides enough boost to keep the body functioning without wasting the precious gas needed for the summit.
At Camp 4, climbers sleep at a rate of 0.5-1 liter per minute. This prevents 'Death Zone' headaches and ensures the body recovers for the final Mount Everest summit push at midnight.
If a climber gets into trouble, the guide can 'crank' the flow to 6 liters per minute. This 'emergency oxygen' is the first aid of the Mount Everest summit world.
Oxygen management is a life-saving skill. In the high-stakes world of a Mount Everest expedition, knowing your flow rate is as important as knowing your route.