The Icefall Doctors: Guardians of the Summit Route

Navigating the Most Dangerous Part of an Everest Expedition

A Moving Maze of Ice

The Khumbu Icefall is a river of ice that moves up to a meter a day. For any Mount Everest expedition, it is the first and most terrifying obstacle on the way to the Mount Everest summit. Without the 'Icefall Doctors', the mountain would be impassable.

Setting the Ropes and Ladders

The Icefall Doctors are an elite team of Sherpas who arrive at Everest Base Camp weeks early. They find a path through the shifting towers of ice, fixing ropes and aluminum ladders across bottomless crevasses.

Sherpas navigating the Khumbu Icefall
The Objective Danger

No amount of skill can protect you from a collapsing serac (ice tower). Climbers move through the icefall in the dark of night when the ice is most stable. It is the most adrenaline-pumping part of Everest trekking.

A Daily Maintenance Task

Because the glacier moves, the route can disappear overnight. The Doctors must inspect and repair the ladders every single day of the Mount Everest expedition season to ensure safe passage for summit teams.

Respect the Guardians

The road to the Mount Everest summit is built on the bravery of these men. Every climber owes their summit to the work done in the treacherous Icefall.