The Prusik: The Physics of Friction on Everest

The Simple Knot That Saves Lives on a Mount Everest Expedition

The Backup System

While mechanical ascenders are common, every Mount Everest expedition member must master the Prusik knot. This simple friction hitch is the ultimate backup for ascending fixed ropes toward the Mount Everest summit.

Mechanical Advantage of Friction

The Prusik works by wrapping a thin cord around a thicker climbing rope. Under tension, it bites down, allowing you to hang safely. This physics is vital when navigating the vertical sections of an Everest trekking peak.

A friction hitch knot tied onto a climbing rope
Versatility in Rescue

Unlike a mechanical device, a Prusik can be tied with one hand and works even on icy ropes. In a Mount Everest expedition emergency, it can be used to build hauling systems to rescue a climber from a crevasse.

Minimalist Safety

It weighs almost nothing but provides a redundant safety layer. Carrying two Prusik loops is a standard requirement for any serious climber aiming for the Mount Everest summit.

Master the Basics

Technology can fail, but a well-tied knot won't. Learn the physics of friction to ensure your Mount Everest expedition is as safe as possible.