Cold Steel: The Physics of Ice Screws on Everest

How Small Hardware Secures a Mount Everest expedition

Anchored to the Deep

When you are on a steep ice wall near the Mount Everest summit, your life depends on a few centimeters of steel. Understanding the physics of ice screws is critical for any technical Mount Everest expedition member.

Biting the Blue Ice

The sharp teeth of the screw cut into the ice as you turn the handle. At high altitude, the ice is incredibly hard and brittle. Placing a screw requires skill to ensure it doesn't shatter the surface during Everest trekking peak attempts.

Ice screw being turned into a frozen wall
Thermal Stability of the Anchor

On a Mount Everest expedition, sun hit can 'melt out' a screw during the day. Climbers must check the thermal stability of their anchors constantly to ensure the safety lines to the Mount Everest summit remain secure.

The Leverage of the Hanger

The hanger is designed to sit flat against the ice, reducing the leverage force if a climber falls. This simple engineering is what allows Mount Everest summit teams to move with confidence on 60-degree ice slopes.

Hardware for the High Life

In the world of Mount Everest expeditions, small gear has huge consequences. Master your ice screw technique to ensure a safe path to the Mount Everest summit.