The Role of the Sirdar: The Boss of the Mountain

Leadership on a Mount Everest Expedition

The Head Sherpa

Every successful expedition has a Sirdar. He is the head Sherpa, the foreman, and the logistics general. Without a strong Sirdar, a Mount Everest summit bid falls apart.

Managing the Team

The Sirdar manages the climbing Sherpas, the cooks, and the porters. He decides who carries what and who goes to the summit. His authority is absolute on the mountain.

Sirdar Organizing Porters
Route Decisions

While Western guides lead clients, the Sirdar often makes the calls on route fixing and load ferrying. He knows the mountain's moods better than anyone.

Conflict Resolution

With high stress and high altitude, tempers flare. The Sirdar mediates disputes between staff and climbers, keeping the team cohesive for the Everest trekking goals.

Respect the Rank

If the Sirdar speaks, listen. His experience is the safety net for the entire group.