Leadership on a Mount Everest Expedition
Every successful expedition has a Sirdar. He is the head Sherpa, the foreman, and the logistics general. Without a strong Sirdar, a Mount Everest summit bid falls apart.
The Sirdar manages the climbing Sherpas, the cooks, and the porters. He decides who carries what and who goes to the summit. His authority is absolute on the mountain.
While Western guides lead clients, the Sirdar often makes the calls on route fixing and load ferrying. He knows the mountain's moods better than anyone.
With high stress and high altitude, tempers flare. The Sirdar mediates disputes between staff and climbers, keeping the team cohesive for the Everest trekking goals.
If the Sirdar speaks, listen. His experience is the safety net for the entire group.